Monatlicher Archiv: April 2022

Who made my clothes: Nachhaltige Mode made in Germany

Who made my clothes: Fair Fashion Made in Germany

GERMAN VERSION

l’amour est bleu was founded with a vision to change the fashion industry. My desire is to create beautiful sustainable fashion that women will love and wear throughout their lives. To do this, I search for the most beautiful sustainable fabrics and create capsule collections that are easy to wear and combine well with each other. From the beginning, we have produced fairly in Germany, although production in Vietnam would not have been out of the question due to my mother tongue and network. Due to the complexity of the textile supply chain, I ultimately decided on production Made in Germany. The short distances allowed me to have the greatest possible influence on the transparency and sustainability of my supply chain. A few years later, I would never have thought it possible to have my clothes made by Vietnamese tailors in Berlin.

From pre-production to made to order

The first collections of l’amour est bleu were classically pre-produced – in small quantities, but still, there were leftovers at the end and that annoyed me a lot. It went against my idea of sustainability that resources and labour are invested in a garment that remains hanging on a clothes rail. My basic idea of l’amour est bleu was to produce garments only on order, to make only what is needed. I was talked out of this now very common production model at the time. But after several collections with leftover stock, I decided to give made to order a chance.

I worked with Karen, a freelance tailor, at the beginning and after a short time we found our rhythm and it worked flawlessly to make the clothes to order. But the greatest thing was that the customers accepted the longer waiting time of 10 days! The demand grew and suddenly I had to find new tailors to serve the orders.

l'amour est bleu Schneiderei

Textile production in Berlin

Through Karen I found my second seamstress Annika, but I soon needed more support and found none. Out of complete perplexity, I wrote to my photographer Vivienne in the hope that she knew some Vietnamese tailor. And she did indeed have an acquaintance whose parents ran a tailor shop. So I marched with my cuts and patterns to the tailor’s shop in Friedrichshain and asked, in my broken Vietnamese, if they could make my orders for me. When they looked at me silently with wide eyes, I asked uncertainly, “Or would you prefer German?” Yen and her husband Toan asked me in horror why my Vietnamese language skills were so poor! 

In the meantime, I have shifted the entire production of l’amour est bleu to Yen and through our purely Vietnamese communication, my language skills have improved significantly. While I made all the cuts and patterns myself in the beginning, Yen has taken over this area for the most part. She also coordinates the production of orders among her tailors and develops designs for the l’amour est bleu collections. Six months ago, we started producing orders for other fashion labels.

l'amour est bleu Yen

“It’s not an easy path to change the fashion industry, but it feels easier when you have support”.

From lone fighter to team

“I am very happy that I have now built up a small team to support me with l’amour est bleu. It is not an easy way to change the fashion industry, but it feels easier when you have support. Above all, I am very happy to have found someone in Yen who loves her work as much as I do and finds fulfilment in it. Finally, I would like to give Yen the opportunity to tell you more about herself:

“I was born and raised in Vietnam. I cut a shirt for the first time when I was 13 and sewed it by hand because my parents didn’t make enough money to afford a sewing machine. It took me a whole day to sew the shirt and my mother and friends praised me for making it look like it was sewn with a machine. My mother recognised my talent and sent me to train as a tailor. In 1987, the textile factory where I worked sent me to East Berlin as a guest worker to the company Damenmoden Berlin. In 1998, I opened my own tailor’s shop for new productions and alterations. But new designs were hardly in demand and in the long run I was bored just repairing clothes. I always wanted to be a pattern maker and dressmaker and was afraid that I would forget the knowledge I had learned if I only repaired clothes. The only thing I liked about being an alteration tailor was that I got to customise clothes for my customers and they were happy. But in 2018, I reached a point where I was becoming increasingly unhappy with my work. I am a very devout Christian and asked God to allow me to tailor new clothes again. A short time later, Thien actually came to my tailoring shop and asked me if I would like to work for her. What I love about my job is that I make clothes for women that make them feel beautiful. So I am grateful for any feedback from our customers that helps us improve our clothes. Because making our customers happy is a matter close to my heart”.

Shop the look

l’amour est bleu Blazer Model Anna

l’amour est bleu Top Model Charlene

l’amour est bleu blouse Model Astrid

l’amour est bleu trousers Model Greta

Ältere Beiträge

Shop the collection

SHOP
Who made my clothes: Nachhaltige Mode made in Germany

Who made my clothes: Nachhaltige Mode Made in Germany


English version

l’amour est bleu wurde mit der Vision gegründet, die Modeindustrie zu verändern. Mein Wunsch ist es, schöne nachhaltige Mode zu entwerfen, die Frauen ihr ganzes Leben lang lieben und tragen werden. Dafür suche ich die schönsten nachhaltigen Stoffe und kreiere Capsule Kollektionen, die einfach zu tragen und gut miteinander kombinierbar sind. Von Anfang an haben wir fair in Deutschland produziert, obwohl eine Produktion in Vietnam aufgrund meiner Muttersprache und meinem Netzwerk nicht abwegig gewesen wäre. Aufgrund der Komplexität der textilen Lieferkette entschied ich mich letztendlich für eine Produktion Made in Germany. Die kurzen Distanzen ermöglichten mir den größtmöglichen Einfluss auf die Transparenz und Nachhaltigkeit meiner Lieferkette. Dass ich einige Jahre später meine Kleidung in Berlin von vietnamesischen Schneider*innen anfertigen lasse, hätte ich damals nie für möglich gehalten.




Von der Vorproduktion zu Made to order

Die ersten Kollektionen von l’amour est bleu wurden klassisch vorproduziert – zwar in kleinen Mengen, aber dennoch blieben am Ende Restbestände übrig und das ärgerte mich sehr. Es widersprach meiner Vorstellung von Nachhaltigkeit, dass Ressourcen und Arbeitsaufwand in ein Kleidungsstück investiert werden, das auf einer Kleiderstange hängen bleibt. Meine Grundidee von l’amour est bleu war es, Bekleidung nur auf Bestellung zu produzieren, um nur das anzufertigen, was auch gebraucht wird. Dieses mittlerweile sehr gängige Produktionsmodell wurde mir damals ausgeredet. Doch nach mehreren Kollektionen mit Restbeständen, beschloss ich Made to order eine Chance zu geben.

Ich arbeitete am Anfang mit Karen, einer Freelance-Schneiderin, zusammen und nach kurzer Zeit haben wir unseren Rhythmus gefunden und es funktionierte einwandfrei, die Bekleidung auf Bestellung anzufertigen. Das Großartigste war aber, dass die Kundinnen und Kunden die längere Wartezeit von 10 Tagen akzeptierten! Die Nachfrage wuchs und plötzlich musste ich neue Schneider*innen finden, um die Bestellungen bedienen zu können.

l'amour est bleu Schneiderei




Eine Produktionsstätte in Berlin

Über Karen fand ich meine zweite Schneiderin Annika, doch ich brauchte bald noch mehr Unterstützung und fand keine. Aus völliger Ratlosigkeit schrieb ich meine Fotografin Vivienne in der Hoffnung an, dass sie irgendeine vietnamesische Schneiderin kannte. Und sie hatte tatsächlich einen Bekannten, dessen Eltern eine Schneiderei betrieben. Also marschierte ich mit meinen Schnitten und Mustern zur Schneiderei in Friedrichshain und fragte mit meinem gebrochenen Vietnamesisch, ob sie für mich meine Bestellungen anfertigen könnten. Als sie mich schweigend mit großen Augen ansahen, fragte ich unsicher: “Oder doch lieber auf Deutsch?” Yen und ihr Mann Toan fragten mich entsetzt, wieso meine Vietnamesisch-Kenntnisse so schlecht wären! 

Mittlerweile habe ich die gesamte Produktion von l’amour est bleu zu Yen verlagert und durch unsere rein vietnamesische Kommunikation haben sich meine Sprachkenntnisse deutlich verbessert. Während ich am Anfang alle Schnitte und Muster selber erstellt habe, hat Yen diesen Bereich größtenteils übernommen. Zudem koordiniert sie die Anfertigung der Bestellungen unter ihren Schneider*innen und entwickelt auch Designs für die Kollektionen von l’amour est bleu. Vor einem halben Jahr haben wir begonnen Aufträge anderer Modelabels zu produzieren.

l'amour est bleu Yen





“Es ist kein leichter Weg, die Modeindustrie zu verändern, doch es fühlt sich leichter an, wenn man Unterstützung hat”.






Von der Einzelkämpferin zum Team

Ich bin sehr froh, dass ich mittlerweile ein kleines Team aufgebaut habe, dass mich mit l’amour est bleu unterstützt. Es ist kein leichter Weg, die Modeindustrie zu verändern, doch es fühlt sich leichter an, wenn man Unterstützung hat. Vor allem bin ich sehr froh, mit Yen jemanden gefunden zu haben, die ihre Arbeit genauso liebt wie ich und Erfüllung darin findet. Zum Schluss möchte ich Yen die Möglichkeit geben, dir mehr über sich zu erzählen:

“Ich bin in Vietnam geboren und aufgewachsen. Mit 13 habe ich das erste Mal ein Hemd geschnitten und habe es mit der Hand genäht, weil meine Eltern nicht genug Geld verdient haben, um sich eine Nähmaschine zu leisten. Ich brauchte einen ganzen Tag, um das Hemd zu nähen und meine Mutter und Freunde lobten mich dafür, dass es aussah, wie mit der Maschine genäht. Meine Mutter erkannte mein Talent und schickte mich zur Schneiderausbildung. 1987 wurde ich von der Textilfabrik, in der ich arbeitete, als Gastarbeiterin zur Firma Damenmoden Berlin nach Ostberlin geschickt. 1998 eröffnete ich meine eigene Schneiderei für Neuanfertigungen und Änderungen. Doch Neuanfertigungen waren kaum gefragt und langfristig langweilte ich mich nur Kleidung zu reparieren. Ich wollte schon immer Schnittmacherin und Schneiderin sein und hatte die Befürchtung, dass ich das beigebrachte Wissen vergesse, wenn ich nur noch Kleidung reparieren würde. Das Einzige, was mir an der Änderungsschneiderei gefiel, war dass ich die Kleidung für meine Kund*innen anpassen durfte und die Kund*innen zufrieden waren. Doch 2018 kam der Punkt, dass ich zunehmend unglücklicher mit meiner Arbeit wurde. Ich bin eine sehr gläubige Christin und bat Gott darum, wieder neue Kleidung schneidern zu dürfen. Kurze Zeit später ist tatsächlich Thien in meine Schneiderei gekommen und fragte mich, ob ich für sie arbeiten möchte. Ich liebe an meinem Beruf, dass ich für Frauen Kleidung anfertige, in denen sie sich schön fühlen. Daher bin ich dankbar für jedes Feedback von unseren Kund*innen, das uns dabei hilft, unsere Kleidung zu verbessern. Denn es ist mir eine Herzensangelegenheit, unsere Kund*innen glücklich zu machen”.



Shop the look




l’amour est bleu Blazer Modell Anna




l’amour est bleu Langarmshirt Modell Charlene






l’amour est bleu Bluse Modell Laura




l’amour est bleu Hose Modell Greta




Ältere Beiträge





Entdecke die Kollektion


SHOP


Wie kann die Modeindustrie ihre Nachhaltigkeitsziele voranbringen?

How Can Fashion Industry Make Progress in Sustainability in 2022


German version

As we look back on the last couple of years, we have seen some great trends and movements emerge in fashion. People got crafty, got political, started putting more thought into what we buy and who we buy from. An increasing amount of people now prioritise sustainability when buying fashion items. 

However, the fashion industry still has a lot to work on. The industry is responsible for around 40 million tonnes of textile waste a year, most of which are either sent to landfills or incinerated. Emissions are still rising, circularity remains elusive, and sustainable textiles have yet to scale. The fashion industry must shift its focus from doing less harm to doing more good. 

The good news is, small brands are offering more solutions and leading fashion towards a fundamental change. People who run small brands do seem to think differently and are able to do better flexibly. Measured strictly by total environmental impact, many small brands automatically perform better than large ones; their size means they are likely to use fewer resources and produce less waste

What’s needed is a systemic change that would allow people and companies to work toward a common goal rooted in what sustainability means; the ability for society to meet people’s basic needs and express their greatest potential and talent. The future of sustainability in fashion lies in regenerative agriculture, durable and long-lasting designs, closed-loop and biodegradable packaging, and cross-industry collaborations are also lighting the way to a more sustainable future.

 

How Can Fashion Industry Make Progress in Sustainability in 2022




Regenerative Sourcing

Regenerative agriculture is set to be “the solution” for sustainable and responsible sourcing for many industries. Regenerative farming practices actively IMPROVE ecosystem including the soil quality, biodiversity, reinvigorating soil so that it can sequester carbon. 

In terms of business strategy, the long-term goal should be to encourage local fibre farms or communities to grow more soil-friendly fibres such as flax or hemp and work towards the Regenerative Organic Alliance’s ROC certification for fibres such as cotton, wool and cashmere. 

It is important to note that, in order for a business to move toward regenerative sourcing, all employees in the business need to understand the agricultural practices and share the same value. The education not only makes it easier for the business to successfully implement the strategy but also empower the employees with knowledge and the ability to prioritise regenerative natural materials. 

 




Track and Trace

Not only that track and trace technology will help rebuild trust and transparency in the supply chain, being able to trace fibre usage allows brands to measure business’ progress on carbon-based targets. 

Perhaps in the future, transparency and level of carbon-neutrality determine a business’s tax rate or access to loans and investors. 

Decarbonising the supply chain is a complicated challenge and it’s overwhelming for brand owners. A good place to start would be to analyse the biggest fibre usage, track its impact via third-party certifications all the way from the raw material to post-consumer end of life. If the whole industry devotes itself to actually achieving it, the process will need to be so sweeping that it will inherently tackle some of fashion’s other problems along the way such as waste and overuse of hazardous chemicals.

 




Responsible Design

Fashion brands are starting to realise that growth in terms of volume of items and speed has often come at the expense of design and relationships with customers while leaving unwanted or unsold products. Designers must consider design practice as a tool to tackle issues, ensure suitability and relevance to the consumers, and products’ end of life including reuse recycling or reselling. 

Practical items that offer multiple uses will appeal to cost-conscious, post-pandemic consumers. Focus on cost-per-wear metrics would drive versatile items such as reversible and trans-seasonal clothing. Paying attention to the smallest details can drastically reduce the overall carbon footprint such as reducing unnecessary components or switching to biodegradable thread. 

Collaborations are now embedded into the fashion industry’s culture. They can be truly progressive and signal how to design a better future when they spark innovation and transmit knowledge, whether keeping traditional skills alive or bringing cutting-edge innovations to the market. New developments in AI technology may make it possible in the future for consumers to be measured by web camera when shopping online and for the garment to be made to their measurements. This is an important step towards a fashion industry that saves resources and produces less waste.





How Can Fashion Industry Make Progress in Sustainability in 2022




Reevaluating Packaging

The growth of e-commerce is already problematic from a sustainability standpoint, high environmental-impact packaging needs to be tackled. It means looking at everything from carriers, garment poly bags and boxes. 

Organisations such as The Sustainable Packaging Coalition, whose members encompass the entire supply chain, and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s initiative, New Plastic Economy, which aims to support companies in making the plastics sector more circular may deliver new solutions in this field/area. Moreover, tackling these issues now means that companies stay ahead of evolving packaging policy. Governments are adopting legislation targeted at companies to tackle their waste.

“Climate change is not only about emissions. It’s about a system that has been benefiting some at the expense of the vast majority of people on the planet and the planet itself“- Muhammad Malas, senior climate campaigner for advocacy group Stand.earth.

 

A lot of brands are growing while maintaining responsible practices and collaborating with others that share the same value, especially in the Scandinavian region. One of the Scandinavian “it” brands Ganni has been working with (Di)vision, which started out upcycling vintage clothes into one-of-a-kind pieces. to develop a business system that embraces scarcity through frequent drops limited in volume, to accommodate the use of deadstock while still growing the business. As the business grew, (Di)vision realised that upcycled pieces don’t work for a big e-commerce business. The brand now uses deadstock luxury fabric for 90% of production, creating seasonal collections with fabrics from factories in Italy, including leftover fabrics from Rick Owens, Gucci and Jil Sander,

Scandinavian young designers emphasise the lack of competition between each other since they are all working towards the same goal together. How wonderful would it be if the global fashion industry works that way?



Shop the look




l’amour est bleu Kleid Modell Amalia




l’amour est bleu Kimono Jacke Modell Adele






l’amour est bleu Strickpullover Modell Alek




l’amour est bleu Strickjogger Modell Wek




Ältere Beiträge





Entdecke die Kollektion


SHOP